I use a lot manual mode and Rpm curve but dont see why to off MOI, any special reason?

Wow, It's very good news 🙂

few remarks:

after installing this version tells me the MOI correcttion is on while manual brake mode is ON.

I frequently switching between the manual and Power sweep modes.

so auto turn off MOI while manual mode is ON would be fine. (maybe as a option in the settings) .

abouth the live graph, its very cool and working fine but the jumping numbersin on the scales is a little confuse me.

so the time scaling would be zero aligned and negative time range like T-1, sec T-2 sec and so on... the dispalyed randge depend on a X zoom settings.

with autoscale the jumping can be high too, so a centered mode would be fine where I can set the centre value of the graph's like 200 Nn... in this case I just seeing the 200 +/- 100 Nm or so depend on the Y zoom settings

Very nice! thank you

amazing! cant wait to test it!!!!  

Tuners!

YourDyno 3.2.42 is available. It enables Live graphs in the Run window 😎!

A short video here. https://youtu.be/rEhhJ6G-7uM

We may want to adjust the live view filtering options after testing on a few different dynos, so let me know your results.

Cheers!

Tuners,

Small update: YourDyno version 3.2.41. Added some logic to the "Slow down rotation after run is complete"-functionality. Previously you had to wait in the Run window until RPM is 0. This takes less time now with this option of course, but it was still possible to exit the Run window prematurely and the brake would continue to stay on. Now you can close the Run window during slowdown and the brake will stay on until RPM is 0, then turn off.

Cheers

Send me a log file with the jumps in retardation and I can take a look. But I bet it is due to extra braking during retardation. If you watch RPM vs time it is sometimes possible to spot, but even small extra braking will cause quite large power changes, so it is not always easy to spot. The lower the MOI, the more sensitive it is for any small extra brake force. 

You will get a big jump if you manually stop the retardation run before it is finished. This is because engine power is set to wheel power in areas where there is no retardation data. 

Having a quick way to print and send would be a huge improvement.   Thanks

Posted by: admin

Hi,

Walter: The "Use brake to slow down rotation when run is complete" only kicks in when the run goes into "Done". When you have compensation for frictional losses enabled (like you do), this happens after the retardation run. So it does not mess up the retardation run. If you don't have that frictional losses correction option turned on, "Done" means when it has reached end RPM. The system will also in that case wait until the brake power is less than the set retardation brake force before jumping to the retardation force in order not to risk over revving the engine. 

HondaRulez, could you just set the brake/RPM options again after installing the new version? 

radics1, I see one way this can happen. If you have Manual mode on, Auto start/stop on and correction for frictional losses is on. Then if the engine RPM drops below the start RPM it will stop. This is because in manual mode the system does not know the end RPM, and as such does not know when the "run" ends and the retardation starts. So it turns off when the RPM comes back to the start RPM. It is easy to avoid though. Turn auto start/stop off or turn correction for frictional losses off (not a common option to enable when doing manual brake control). Or set the start RPM a few hundred RPM lower than the start Brake RPM. 

Let me know if there is a way to reproduce the issue of 0 hp/torque.

Ok! that make sense, once coasting is done, then it can be adjust a brake% for stop the dyno. does it? It's OK thanks!

Tuners,

Thanks to @hondarulez and @stvdrag225 for some quick bug reports. 

YourDyno version 3.2.39 is now available. 

Fixes:

• Torque gauge showed Not a Number when RPM was 0 and 2 RPM sensors were in use (it was correct when RPM was more than 0)
• Temperature graph value showed unit 'C' instead of 'F' when imperial units were selected (numeric value was correct)

Enjoy!

sigve,

1. If you upgraded from pre 3.2.xx then the settings were not all transferred. A different system for settings handling was necessary to enable plugins. It still occasionally happens that some settings do not get transferred, so check to be sure.
2. Yes, you need to enter the MOI. The MOI calculations are more complicated than just a cylinder, so in order not to confuse people, I removed the option to roughly get the MOI right by dimensions of a solid roller (that for example did not take into account the wheel MOI). 
3. Press 'v' then you can select any graph. You can also move them around now

Hi.

 1. Why is it that all calibrations is lost when you update firmware and software?

.2 The Menu for entering roller diameter is lost?

3. It states "engine hp" on the graph? How do i change it to wheel hp?

1. Thanks it would be awesome if you could add the print out list

@stvdrag225, yes that "C" displayed with imperial units selected is a bug, I will fix it, thanks.

Regarding the print out, it is not possible directly. You can open the .csv file in excel though and do some data filtering if you can and produce it. But there is no automatic way to do that today.

Hi,

Walter: The "Use brake to slow down rotation when run is complete" only kicks in when the run goes into "Done". When you have compensation for frictional losses enabled (like you do), this happens after the retardation run. So it does not mess up the retardation run. If you don't have that frictional losses correction option turned on, "Done" means when it has reached end RPM. The system will also in that case wait until the brake power is less than the set retardation brake force before jumping to the retardation force in order not to risk over revving the engine. 

HondaRulez, could you just set the brake/RPM options again after installing the new version? 

radics1, I see one way this can happen. If you have Manual mode on, Auto start/stop on and correction for frictional losses is on. Then if the engine RPM drops below the start RPM it will stop. This is because in manual mode the system does not know the end RPM, and as such does not know when the "run" ends and the retardation starts. So it turns off when the RPM comes back to the start RPM. It is easy to avoid though. Turn auto start/stop off or turn correction for frictional losses off (not a common option to enable when doing manual brake control). Or set the start RPM a few hundred RPM lower than the start Brake RPM. 

Let me know if there is a way to reproduce the issue of 0 hp/torque.