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Mustang md250 controller with yourdyno wiring help..  

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(@jrracefab)
Member

First off... I’m not really sure if this is the correct way to wire this but these three wires are the only wires coming off the control board and they are labeled “signal” “com” and “L1” which I’ve interpreted as the signal, ground and current wire... no clue what’s up with the L1 wire, I don’t have it hooked to anything. I’ve got the the signal wire hooked up to signal out B and ground hooked to 0v. Checked continuity on all the wires and made sure they are intact. Another thing I am unsure of is if the unit is pwm or if it needs analog 5v. When I checked dc voltage at the retarder I have -105v on each wire to the brake without any input from yourdyno. When I do the brake test I get 4.99 volts and no change to voltage to the brake. Has anyone got a diagram for this control box? I’m kinda lost here. Any input would be great, thanks.

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Posted : 10/09/2020 5:38 pm
(@jrracefab)
Member

Pic inside the box

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Posted : 10/09/2020 5:39 pm
(@jrracefab)
Member

Box

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Posted : 10/09/2020 5:41 pm
(@admin)
Member Admin

Hi,

As far as I know a number of people are using the Mustang power supply, but I don't know exactly the connection. 

First, before connecting to YourDyno, ensure that there is no voltage between Com and earth ground. If there is then you need an isolator. 

"Signal" sounds promising as the analog signal you need to feed it. I am quite positive it is not a PWM signal. So you need to swap the jumpers inside the box to analog. 

A way to check the setup is to connect a 1.5V battery between Com and Signal and see if the brake starts to hum. That would be a good sign!

This post was modified 2 weeks ago by admin
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Posted : 11/09/2020 11:24 pm
(@jrracefab)
Member

@admin I checked voltage between com and earth ground and I got less than a volt. Could you explain to me how to hook the isolator up and possibly a link to what I need? I tried the battery between signal and com and saw no smoke, bang, whistle or confetti so that didn’t seem to work.... any other ideas? The third wire is actually an I1 not L1. Thank you for the feedback, I appreciate it very much.

This post was modified 2 weeks ago by JRRacefab
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Posted : 12/09/2020 1:34 am
(@jrracefab)
Member

I figured it out, thanks for all the gobs and gobs of help. The i1 wire needed to be hooked up. It’s a current sensing wire.

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Posted : 13/09/2020 7:49 pm
admin liked
(@admin)
Member Admin

Nice to hear, @jrracefab. Thanks if you can post your connections to the wiki under https://yourdyno.com/helpdesk_category/dynoconversions/ ! There is already an entry for the Mustang, but without much info on the power supply. 

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Posted : 15/09/2020 10:39 pm
(@jrracefab)
Member

@admin will do! I have another quick question. Once I got the brake working i set it up with power sweep and tried to make another pull and got really low hp numbers for some reason.... my moi is 12.5 for inertia only and everything logs perfect, horsepower and torque are accurate but as soon as I switch it to a brake dyno with electronic brake I get low numbers. I calibrated my load cell and set the moi at the same 12.5.. I turned compensation on... do I need to change the moi with brake operation turned on???

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Posted : 22/09/2020 2:44 am
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