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Dyno Hub Diy... Help Me From Italy...

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(@adhoc-racing)
Posts: 21
Member
 

Hello

Good choice !

Cast iron of the rotor is stabilised (by the use and the time). It's a bad idea to machine them 😡 .

If you have one, you can sandblast the rotors and apply a rust converter protection like "Frameto"

The "old black" effect is fine and heat resistant.

For the GAP and a DYNO USE (without water, sand or mud) you can put 1mm . This small gap increase efficiency and minimise drawn current.

Like other friends, BE CARE WITH THE COILS !

Disconnect and check them one by one. For open loop, for short loop (resistance<0.75 ohms) and INSULATION from the frame.

For insulation a simple ohmmeter is not sufficient. You need a true insulation controller with high voltage test.

Dismantle and clean the all four corner connectors. Their backside is full of dirt.

Remember, Dyno brakes works with 196V CC at 16 Amp. Purely lethal !

If you or other friends need infos about Telma brakes, leave a reply on this thread ! 😉 

 

 
Posted : 10/05/2020 1:55 pm
(@giakx14xe)
Posts: 9
Member
Topic starter
 

192 volt is perfect voltage for pacemaker....😂😂

 
Posted : 10/05/2020 2:06 pm
(@walter)
Posts: 244
Member
 

Correct, insulation is the right word lol. 

I did that test using 230v...veeeeeery dangerour!!

Prepare some nuts for wheel to these bolts, because will not possible to remove these as it.

Cheers!

 
Posted : 10/05/2020 3:04 pm
(@mach_1)
Posts: 350
Member
 

 

Have a look at this guys neat hubdyno setup

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pwPP0Ex238M&t=8s

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pwPP0Ex238M

 

1300RHHp 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HtuAIlwrn50

 

5000RHHp + PLUS HubDyno run ; scary !

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3tDs-ixtmug

 

 
Posted : 11/05/2020 3:00 am
(@mach_1)
Posts: 350
Member
 

That is the difference between Europe ..... you have a huge population and man HILLY country roads and nearly  all your heavy vehicles have a electric brake assisted retarder. More wrecking yards ... than Australia so more secondhand units around.

 
Posted : 14/05/2020 2:49 am
(@giakx14xe)
Posts: 9
Member
Topic starter
 

I was lucky, in Italy the old trucks are now brought all to Africa, luckily I found a demolition that had something, had a lot of telma 200, 250, 300 I took the only two the same ... I repeat I also found two frenelsa f16 100, but I found them too small .... if you are interested, I can give you the contact of that demolition and understand if they ship to Australia

 
Posted : 14/05/2020 6:42 am
(@vtecdohcter)
Posts: 2
Member
 
Posted by: @giakx14xe
Always very kind, and available, I don't know the reason but I can't find any used brake, it's been a week since I've called
any truck breaker but nobody has anything, I only found two Frenelsa 100daN, and 2 Focal Telma mounted on gearbox by bus ...My project begins to have the first failures .... Out of curiosity I contacted Frenelsa for a quote and they replied:I share it with you
Price with shipment to Italy for one piece

F12-40 (72V)

1.588 €

F12-40 (192V)

1.761 €

F16-65 (192V)

1.913 €

F16-80 (192V)

2.003 €

F16-100 (192V)

2.057 €

F16-120 (192V)

2.305 €

F16-160 (192V)

2.647 €

F16-250 (192V)

2.886 €

F16-380 (192V)

3.206 €

F16-400 (192V)

3.325 €

F16-310C (192V)

3.604 €

F16-GR (192V)

3.772 €

F16-GR CM (192V)

4.405 €

How would I determine which spec is right for me ? Looking to build 2wd or may be 4wd with range hp of 100-1000hp. 

 
Posted : 09/06/2020 8:09 am
(@walter)
Posts: 244
Member
 

F16-160 would be ok. I will go minimun for F16-250.

 
Posted : 10/06/2020 1:38 pm
vtecdohcter reacted
(@vtecdohcter)
Posts: 2
Member
 

@walter thanks Walter. Will go with your suggestion. 

 

 
Posted : 10/06/2020 4:44 pm
Walter reacted
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