Q&A Forum
good morning everyone, my name is Giacomo I'm a mechanic, in the last period I installed several reprogrammable ECUs, unfortunately many jobs I have to refuse because I don't have a bench and some cars it is impossible to map them on the road, I was looking for a test bench, but at the moment the my budget does not allow me, in doing a thousand searches on the internet, I happened on your site, and I read it in full, I must say that you gave me an exaggerated stimulus, I would like to start making a couple of dyno Hubs, unfortunately I really struggle to find a pair of magnetic brakes, and before making the wrong purchases I would like to ask you a series of questions, I apologize for my English, I use google translate to translate and I imagine that the translation is quite disgusting ....
1) I found a pair of Frenelsa F16-100 (1000nm) at a very interesting figure, I am afraid that 1000 nm are few to make dyno hubs, in your opinion?
2) always thinking about the type of brake to buy I made a series of calculations and asked you if they were right or wrong, a car that has relatively small tires (e.g. 175/55 r 14) at 220 per hour (i.e. fifth gear) the wheels would turn at 2000 rpm, so between the engine and the hub there is a reduction of about 3: 1, which halves the braking torque, if I mount two 1000 nm dyno hubs, I can brake
2000 nm but reduced 3: 1 would become 700 nm, so could I brake the maximum car with those powers? or is there something in my calculation of wrong?
3) must the two magnetic brakes be the same? or can the software work with two different brakes while still managing to synchronize the 2 Hubs?
4) someone advises me not to buy Focal models, i.e. those mounted on the gearbox as they do not have bearings to support the rotors is it true or did I not understand anything?
Thank you for your time
Yours sincerely
Vezzoli Giacomo
How would I determine which spec is right for me ? Looking to build 2wd or may be 4wd with range hp of 100-1000hp.
I was lucky, in Italy the old trucks are now brought all to Africa, luckily I found a demolition that had something, had a lot of telma 200, 250, 300 I took the only two the same ... I repeat I also found two frenelsa f16 100, but I found them too small .... if you are interested, I can give you the contact of that demolition and understand if they ship to Australia
That is the difference between Europe ..... you have a huge population and man HILLY country roads and nearly all your heavy vehicles have a electric brake assisted retarder. More wrecking yards ... than Australia so more secondhand units around.
Have a look at this guys neat hubdyno setup
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pwPP0Ex238M&t=8s
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pwPP0Ex238M
1300RHHp
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HtuAIlwrn50
5000RHHp + PLUS HubDyno run ; scary !
Alepa Proline Racing Hemi Corvette 5235hp on the Dyno!
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3tDs-ixtmug
Correct, insulation is the right word lol.
I did that test using 230v...veeeeeery dangerour!!
Prepare some nuts for wheel to these bolts, because will not possible to remove these as it.
Cheers!
192 volt is perfect voltage for pacemaker....😂😂
Hello
Good choice !
Cast iron of the rotor is stabilised (by the use and the time). It's a bad idea to machine them 😡 .
If you have one, you can sandblast the rotors and apply a rust converter protection like "Frameto"
The "old black" effect is fine and heat resistant.
For the GAP and a DYNO USE (without water, sand or mud) you can put 1mm . This small gap increase efficiency and minimise drawn current.
Like other friends, BE CARE WITH THE COILS !
Disconnect and check them one by one. For open loop, for short loop (resistance<0.75 ohms) and INSULATION from the frame.
For insulation a simple ohmmeter is not sufficient. You need a true insulation controller with high voltage test.
Dismantle and clean the all four corner connectors. Their backside is full of dirt.
Remember, Dyno brakes works with 196V CC at 16 Amp. Purely lethal !
If you or other friends need infos about Telma brakes, leave a reply on this thread ! 😉
@walter wooow you have build a dyno hub??did you succeed without big problems ?? as it is also my project and I am afraid to find too many problems, especially to make those powers stand up ... sorry for a question the weight of the car you put it on the dyno or keep it raised with a jack or a bridge
looks like the same as my brakes!! the Telma engineer from my local city, when i went to telma for buy grease when i bought these, he asked me for what truck, i told him i havent one! lol, it's for a Dyno for testing cars, i told him how i made everything and he told me, i have to visit you, i wanna see it..2 days later, he visited my shop, told me i was crazy, that brake is used for "mini" trucks with +25.000Kg lol. if i remember correctly my brakes are C8770 or something like that, i have noted in an email for sure because he sent me catalg for my brakes, by looking pictures looks really the same! to heavy and powerfull brakes for sure! check all coils for to be sure you will not have problems with any of these later.
FYI, ive been using my hub dyno for +2 years, and ive tested +680nm (so far) and brakes was around 30-33% only.
What Mach says, clean and check for runout, you shuold have not problem with that, just check coils too, i had to dissamble one time for fix one coil, problem with used brakes are the "cover" for the coils. (i dont know how it's say in english) but coils has some protection for currents.
Good luck!
My dreams is testing car over 1000 bhp....
Curious what horsepower vehicle you plan to mainly test on those two big boys ?
Clean rotor surface and check for runout first. Before any rotor machining ?
How much did you endup paying for them ?