Dyno Hub Diy... Help Me From Italy...
Good choice !
Cast iron of the rotor is stabilised (by the use and the time). It's a bad idea to machine them 😡 .
If you have one, you can sandblast the rotors and apply a rust converter protection like "Frameto"
The "old black" effect is fine and heat resistant.
For the GAP and a DYNO USE (without water, sand or mud) you can put 1mm . This small gap increase efficiency and minimise drawn current.
Like other friends, BE CARE WITH THE COILS !
Disconnect and check them one by one. For open loop, for short loop (resistance<0.75 ohms) and INSULATION from the frame.
For insulation a simple ohmmeter is not sufficient. You need a true insulation controller with high voltage test.
Dismantle and clean the all four corner connectors. Their backside is full of dirt.
Remember, Dyno brakes works with 196V CC at 16 Amp. Purely lethal !
If you or other friends need infos about Telma brakes, leave a reply on this thread ! 😉
192 volt is perfect voltage for pacemaker....😂😂
Correct, insulation is the right word lol.
I did that test using 230v...veeeeeery dangerour!!
Prepare some nuts for wheel to these bolts, because will not possible to remove these as it.
Have a look at this guys neat hubdyno setup
5000RHHp + PLUS HubDyno run ; scary !
Alepa Proline Racing Hemi Corvette 5235hp on the Dyno!
That is the difference between Europe ..... you have a huge population and man HILLY country roads and nearly all your heavy vehicles have a electric brake assisted retarder. More wrecking yards ... than Australia so more secondhand units around.
I was lucky, in Italy the old trucks are now brought all to Africa, luckily I found a demolition that had something, had a lot of telma 200, 250, 300 I took the only two the same ... I repeat I also found two frenelsa f16 100, but I found them too small .... if you are interested, I can give you the contact of that demolition and understand if they ship to Australia