What about calabrating the barrel with your system? Is this as hard as it sounded when I read the story on this forum about the other guy who did what I want to do back in 2018? It seemed like he had a tough time getting things to read properly?

This is a better picture of sensor.

Your kit comes with new sensor anyway? This way I can use it and have new wheel made? This is likely the easier option ? This sensor on my dyno is from the 90's. This dyno has never been updated since bought new in the 90's.

You can reuse it if it is a hall effect sensor, but not if it is a magnetic (VR) sensor, which it very well might be. If you prefer you can use the VR sensor, but then you need a converter board, this one: http://www.jbperf.com/dual_VR/v2_1.html (5V version). It converts the VR signal into a 0-5V signal, which is what YourDyno needs.

Picture? Maybe file size is too big? But it is a dynojet 100I

The dyno is an inertia dyno. It has a Sensor and pick up, BUT I have found another post with a guy who has same dyno as me and he could NOT use his original sensor? This post was from 2018 tho, so maybe this has changed? I will try and send a picture of what I have.

Hi there!

This can easily be upgraded with YourDyno. I need a bit more info about your system to know exactly what you need. Is it inertia or a braked dyno? 

To read the drum (RPM) you need an RPM sensor. It may be possible to reuse the one you have depending on the type, but I a new one is only about $70. In addition you need a trigger wheel, unless you have one already. See https://yourdyno.com/YourDynoHelp/brake-rpm-sensors/ . 20-30 teeth is normally a good size. If you have a inertia dyno, that's all you need! 

You can post some pics and/or add some more questions and we can help you get going.