If I wanted. To manually enter the gear ratio?

I looked online and the bike I am testing (2014 yz250f) says it has a final reduction ratio of 3.846 (stock sprockets) (stock tire size) this number of 3.846, is this the number I enter into yourdyno in actual gear ratio box?

As mentioned, your gear ratio is wrong. 

HP and Torque always crosses at 5252 RPM when using imperial units and at 7121 RPM when using metric units. This is independent of the software or settings, it is just the formula. Remember that the left (HP) and the right (Torque) Y-axis can have different scale. 

Picture of new trigger wheel made to exact specs as specified on this web page.

Update, the trigger wheel I had made was to thin, and maybe not enough teeth, I really only made the wheel this way because I had saw another post from someone using same dyno as I am here in the forum, so I copied their trigger wheel, however it would not read accurate.

I have made a new trigger wheel and this time I made the wheel to exact specs as listed on this web page, made by CNC, this worked much better and now this small issue is fixed.

However I am still having issues with something else, but can't seem to figure it out.  I believe the new issue has to do with rpm and gear ratio, setting engine rpm with d-tec unit, locking gear ratio, but HP and TQ values are not what they should be, well hp is close but TQ is not what it should be, for example if bike has 15 TQ on dynojet dyno, my dyno says it has 28 TQ, also hp/TQ values cross at way to high of an rpm for example if they are supposed to cross at 5000rpm, they are crossing at 8000rpm as an example. Jostein has been very helpful, I was having some serious frustrations at first, but as I get familiar with everything I see it is not as difficult as I was making it. This current issue is proving to be very difficult to solve tho! My test bike is a 2014 yz250f. It is just so odd, cause everything seems to be as it should! Engine rpm I believe matches the rpm of the engine itself (bike has no tacho) but usually rpm is off by double, and this I am 99% sure that engine rpm is correct. For some reason I am doing something wrong or something is going wrong with the engine rpm/drum rpm/gear ratio part I believe .

this coming weekend I have new test bike coming and a friend, maybe 2 brains, 4 hands, and 4 eyes can make things work. The new test bike will be a Yamaha r3, and good thing about this bike is it has a tacho, it also has dynojet programmer engine management system, so everything the bike is doing can be logged on lap top with this unit and certain it is correct, and can compare to what the dyno is saying, also we know proper gear ratio for the bike, so if something is not working correctly here with the dyno, we can manualy insert proper ratio!

i will update, in hopes one day this will help someone. i sure wish I had a blue print to follow rite rite now with this exact set up! The one other guy I see on this forum who has done exactly as I am doing has not updated his post in a long, long time, and he also has not gave much detail. When I do finally have this figured out I will put up everything in one post so it is easy for the next guy.

Update: the dtec RPM adapter came in today, this was very easy to install with instructions on yourdyno web page. It is working very well.

Still need to figure out why the engine rpm is reading proper but on the graph I believe it is showing drum rpm? I wanted HP/TQ VS engine rpm, NOT drum rpm?

As I don't know how to set the drum rpm, and really don't want to have to set the drum rpm with every different bike? Or is this mandatory?

I really wish this page had more action. I am so new at this, but with help I know I can become very well versed with this stuff.

The dynojet roller has a number stamped into the drum on the flywheel side, this number is the MOI for that drum, use this number in your dyno MOI and all should be fine. Still early days, but I will know more when the engine rpm sensor gets here.

Pick up wheel installed.

I received the pick up wheel I had a friend make on his CNC, installed it and all seems pretty good. I am still waiting for my engine rpm sensor to arrive so that I can read engine rpm direct from engine.

Here is a picture of new wheel installed.

For fun I put my KTM 50 on the dyno and made a pass, I didn't calabrate rpm from bike to drum as I am not certain how to do this, but the bike almost 6 HP, I believe this is very close for this bike? I also got a decent looking graph.

But then I decided to add plug ins and now all is shite!! See plug ins section for this nonsense, all was great till then.

I recieved my yourdyno unit today, wow I am so surprised how small the unit is, very amazing, I could swear they looked bigger in the you tube videos I watched? The purchase of this unit was so very easy, shipped out rite away and in my hands here in Canada in 5 days!

I am currently waiting for my new trigger wheel to be made, but once that arrives I will try and keep this updated with my progress, as I have 0 experience with this stuff, and I am totally relying on the information I have been finding, more information for the next guy the better.

Load cell is only for brake dynos, for inertia you just need an RPM sensor.

Load cell is only for brake type dyno? Not needed for inertia type of dyno?

I don't know if I understand what the load cell is? And if this is something I require when I make my order?

I will order the rpm sensor you have listed .

Ahh ok, I understand this I believe. The more time I spend reading about this and watching videos, the more I begin to understand.

Yes I believe it is best to have new wheel made and use supplied sensor also.

Oh, that RPM sensor is not going to be usable, or at least not the trigger wheel. It does not have enough teeth. The sensor itself may be ok, it may be a hall sensor or an optical sensor. You can potentially just replace the trigger wheel, but once you are down that path I would rather change the sensor too. 

The way to calibrate an inertia dyno is to take a bike with a known power level and adjust the Moment of Inertia until it matches. Pretty simple, but you need a reference dyno pull. Alternatively you can take a stock bike and adjust until you get the manufacturere's spec, but it is more accurate if you use data from a dyno pull.