Q&A Forum
Hi there is it possible to add a stepper motor to L&S flow control valve to be controlled dy yourdyno! Thanks in advance
Yes indeed! You can add a stepper directly to this valve, does not even need a gearing. It needs a stepper driver too and a 24-48V power supply too. The stepper driver is connected directly to YourDyno.
Hi there is it possible to add a stepper motor to L&S flow control valve to be controlled dy yourdyno! Thanks in advance
Hi and welcome to the forum Austin , that picture looks like a hand turn valve approximately a 90 degrees turn from fully open to fully closed and as Admin(Jostien) said "yes" you can motorise the L&S control valve.
What s_type load cell and speed sensor or reluctor whell does your land&sea water absorber use ? Or do you need to up_grade them to be compatible to use on YourDyno?
Support for Stepper motors released
LAND&SEA WATER BRAKE
Here is a rundown of how we use YourDyno to control our Land & Sea water brake.
https://yourdyno.com/YourDynoHelp/landsea-water-brake/
https://yourdyno.com/YourDynoHelp/water-brakes/
Selecting the right load cell
https://yourdyno.com/the-yourdyno-instrumentation-kit/
Brake RPM sensor considerations
https://yourdyno.com/rpm-sensors/
Thanks for the replies.
The valve i have as almost 2 complete turns from closed to open! Presumably this will not be a problem?
- I am going to fab a arm similar to the one Glenn as done on his post using a single point load cell! We build honda gx200 clone engines with power between 8 and 15 hp! 10 or 15kgs as starting point!
- Regarding rpms i was hoping to use the L/S one in the brake! As brake fits directly onto engine output shaft there is not much room to fit a trigger wheel! But should be able to make something that fixes on with brake retaining bolt if needed! I'll go through the links and videos later! All greatly appreciated. Austin
OK, two turns, then it is not the same as I thought. How does it look inside?
It can still be completely fine to add a stepper directly to it, but curious to know how it looks inside.
For the load cell, you can do as Glenn did, you you can fit a standard load cell. We just use a standard load cell in our setup.
The L&S RPM sensor has one or very few pulses. So you need a trigger wheel, unless you turn off "Compensate for inertia effects". Without that turned on you will get somewhat too low results, plus they will be different with different ramp rate. Probably not too much different, so up to you. I clearly recommend a trigger wheel if you can.
I'm curious to see also what the valve looks like inside!
Couple of pics of valve! Just a ball and seat quite basic!
Do you think adding another 3 magnets to the rotor to give me 4 will be enough pickups? Thanks Austin
Hi what were your thoughts on the flow valve thanks?
Thanks for the pics. The valve is probably good, just add a stepper and you have it electronically controlled. You can of course wait with that and have it running manually first.
For the magnets. No, I recommend adding a trigger wheel. Distance from tooth to tooth must be very regular, and you need as a minimum 200 pulses per second. 20 teeth or so is good. See brake/Roller RPM sensors - YourDyno.com
Ok thanks. Yourdyno finally turned up this week after been held in customs! I have a to make a trigger wheel that will fit onto input shaft between the brake and engine I have about 15mm to play with so should be ok! I presume thh majority of crank sensors a suitable for use when used with a shielded cable? Thanks