Hi, glad you are happy with the system.

Regarding the RPM issue, two things to check:

• If the gear ratio is off by a bit then the RPM will be wrong
• Import the raw log file without noise reduction to see the readings without any filtering. It does not look like you have too high filtering from the curves, but good check anyway

Cheers

Tutuur, hello, i have the same dyno, what MOI did you set In settings?

I've tuned about 6 cars on the dyno in the meantime and getting used to the software. Works really intuitive and good, very happy overall!

Just one thing i noticed which i wonder why it is the way it is:

I always dyno cars to the rev limiter, however the rpm's on the readout always end lower/tail off steeply. For instance a car i did yesterday was an athmospheric Clio RS which revved and made power to the limiter at 7700rpm, yet on the readout it peaked at 7200rpm so results are lower then they are in realtime. Any idea why this is the case? 

Had no time to test anything but will do today.

Regarding the lambda issue, i had the correct wire but wrong data. Turns out i was reading an old .pdf, all sorted now 🙂

Regarding the lambda issue, i think i’ve found it. The zt-2 has two potential outputs, one of which is linear and one isn’t. I have used the non-linear output which obviously isn’t going to work when giving the YD only two data points.

will try it again tomorrow but i’m pretty sure this is my issue.

regarding the results, they are just very smooth, up until now i’ve always used a Maha dyno on which i could always see some dips in the graph. With my current setup it’s just 1 smooth line. Think i’ll have to experiment on that front aswell, maybe just turn off noise filtering all together will make it better 🙂

Is it the Zt-3 lambda controller you have? You should connect its ground (black wire) to 0V and its Linear Wideband Analog Output (white) to Signal. 

As you say, make sure there is no ground loops here or ground potentials here. You can for example feed the 12V power directly from a 12V power supply with isolated output. 

If you still measure something strange, just measure with a voltmeter and you will probably see what's going on. 

I am not sure I understood your question on seeing what's going on better. What specifically did you want to improve? Indeed, turn on raw logging, then you can experiment with noise reduction settings, etc.

Wait, my zeitronix has a ground wire which is connected to the 0v terminal, surely i shouldn't connect another wire for it to work properly?

Scrap that last one, ground potential difference is probably the case, should've known this from my experience with standalone management installations......

Have tuned both cars which worked okay. Still have to play with settings a bit, noise reduction on 2 and rpm spike removal on 2 aswell still gave very clean graphs. I'd like to see what's going on better, is it possible i've made too few teeth on my trigger wheel not giving it enough resolution?

I have a trigger wheel with 20 teeth as suggested on here..... Didn't make a raw datalog so can't play with it now sadly.

Also, my zeitronix lambda with all values entered as suggested by zeitronix still gave very faulty results, it does a test cycle when you turn it on to check if the calibration is correct, it should display 14.7:1 for a few seconds but it displayed around 19, any suggestions?

I’ts been a productive few days with added picture as end result.

Got two cars to tune tomorrow, we’ll see how it goes 🙂

Physically checked everything 🙂

rollers are going to be 6cm closer together and 2cm higher to accept lower cars.

in the future i’ll be converting it to an eddy braked dyno and will probably be linking the rollers at the same time 🙂

Thank you very much for the information!
Where did you get it all from or did you physically measure and count everything?

Okay, some more info to add:

original trigger wheel is +-110mm diameter, 84 theeth

shafts are 70mm od with 60mm next to the bearings and 50 od shaft for the bearing itself

bearings which are needed are 3x 2210E for the split pillow blocks, 1x 22210E for the solid block.

they are sealed by felt seals id 60 od 76.

the bearing blocks are snl210. Seals are tsn210 l/c/g (different variances available). I haven’t been able to locate new ones yet as they’re an old type bearing block.

rollers are separated by 232mm inbetween the rollers, 500mm shaft spacing

That's great information to have!
Thanks for sharing!