Welcome to the forum!

The Telma CC160 can hold 1600 Nm, so for example at 3000 RPM that is 670HP. However the max torque is not constant over the RPM range and the torque capacity falls when it gets hot, so it will be less in practice for at least for long steady state runs. For power runs (sweep the RPM) you have the effect of the Moment of Inertia that helps absorb HP, so that will give higher HP capacity than steady state. So the capacity should be much more than 250HP. I expect it can do 500hp without problems in a power run. Anyone who has a Maha LPS13 can chip in?

For the power supply, they are all roughly the same design but differently made for the different dynos, I don't know this one in particular. But if it works you can try to find an analog signal, typically 0-5V (sometimes 0-10V) that goes to the thyristor/rectifier controller board. 

Otherwise SportDevices is an easier path, it works great. Let me know if you are on a budget, there are lower cost alternatives if you are a bit adventurous. 

Yes, you need a new RPM sensor. The Maha uses an VR sensor which is not compatible with YourDyno. You also need a new trigger wheel, check the wiki on that. 

Good luck!

Thank you for your input. I saw on the powersupply of the brake that there is a SEMIKRON SKB33/08. than it has two wires to the main board. And there ar 2 smal transformators of 18 volts. If someone knows where I can find the wirediagram I think I maybe can find the 5 or 10 volt analog input signal. But the problem is the whole system works on one singel board and there is for example also the low voltage FAN switch from the remote. Also i see some electronics for the analog needles (gauges) on the front of the machine. I will try to make some pictures of it. 

Picture of the main board

That Semikron device is the controlled rectifier. You can try to follow the 2 control signals (the white wires I think) to see where they go. But there does not seem to be a nice small stand-alone power controller there... you get a lot of other "stuff" with it. Probably you could reuse the bridge and buy a controller like the Semikron SKPC 200, I believe it can control that bridge (check the specs). 

I' ve been busy with the Dyno last week and made a hole in the floor and gave the Dyno some grease and a fresh paint job. I 'm very enthusiastic about your product. But I have a few questions.

* The loadcell on the MAHA Dyno is not a S type but more a "block". I attached a picture of it. What would be the distance of the measuring point relative to the centre of the brake. Or do I have to change it to a S type. But if so where is the best point to instal it. 

* Is it possible to put a company logo in JPG, PDF or other format in the print of the dynograph? 

* I am looking for a nice solution to strap down a car as easy and fast as possible and is even with the floor so you don't brake your neck on it when you walk around the dyno if there is no car on it. 

* I don't really understand how the load of the cpu of the PC gets more when you have more runs on the screen. I found some information about that on the website but don't understand that. 😊 

* What is the average size of the file from one run? 

fresh paint and nice even with the floor. 

Your Maha is looking good!

For your questions:

1. No problem with a bar type sensor. The distance to the sensor is not important, what is important is the distance to the (center of gravity of the) load when you calibrate. But that load cell looks a bit old and taped up, a new one is really not much money, so I would maybe go for that. Even if it works it may not be very linear
2. Yes, you can add your company's logo to the printout. Just go to Print page setup
3. On the CPU load. If you have very many curves in the same graph then the cursor is lagging a bit with a slow PC. You can move the mouse around and it will find the closest curve and the closest point on that curve and show this. Other than that, if you load up with many sensors (through plugins) then it is quite a lot of calculations every second, so you may need a faster PC. For example you can log and display 8 thermocouples, 5+3 analog sensors plus a whole lot of OBD2 data in addition to controlling 2 brakes and calculating HP/Torque... The PC for our rolling road similar to yours is really low cost though, and it is fine. 
4. One csv file with a few runs is typically a couple of MB only

Looking forward to seeing your system in action!

Thank you for your reply! Last week I did some testing with the old original system. It was fun but it is much nicer to have a dynograph of te measuring. After reading a week on the internet I doubt about the Sportdevices SP5 (€3200 including PWS v3.2) or the YourDyno kit with PWS v3.2 (€1700) After some playing with both free software is decided to go for the YourDyno! A big reason for me was the simplisety of using the software and this forum for the questions and the fast replys from Jostein. So I ordered the parts to make te MAHA work with YourDyno. Also ordered the YourDyno kit. (thanks Jostein for the super fast response and order updates!) I hope the kit arrives tomorrow 😁 Also I bought a Sportdevices Power supply PWS V3.2b, the Velleman VM167 And a 12volt 20Amp power supply for the Ebay relay board to operate te cooling fan and valve of the pneumatic lift with the YourDyno software. And the 5Volt 10Amp for the extra sensors via the Velleman VM167. And for the good view a 42 inch touchscreen monitor for the PC. 

I was wondering what the best way is to control the PWS 3.2b. I have a Telma CC160 Eddy brake that works on 192Volt and I measured a resistance of 11.9 Ohm. So that will be 16 Ampere on max load. The shop that sold the PWS to me adjusted it to max 16 Amp. What is better for controlling the PWS with digital PWM signal or analog 0-5Volt? What would be the benefit of each signal? 

Is there an option to make environmental sensors (temperature, humidity and air pressure) external so I can put al the parts with the YourDyno module  inside one control cabinet so the heat of the powersupply and PC give a wrong number?  Maybe possible with using the VM167? 

Hi,

Most use analog output to control the brake power supply. I believe PWM or analog works equally good though. Remember to swap the jumper inside the YourDyno box if you go for Analog. 

Yes, some good news on the external environmental sensors. I am making a plugin to support this sensor: 

https://www.dracal.com/store/products/usb_pth200/index.php

The plugin is super simple, just waiting for the sensor to arrive. Indeed if the YourDyno box is within a cabinet or something it is better to have an external environmental sensor. Stay tuned!

First of all.. Thank you Jostein for your fast shipping! I am working on the Dyno as much as possible to get it running but it is busy at my shop so I need more time for it😬😬 While I was wiring up the system I was thinking about using a temperature sensor on the telma CC160 eddy brake to monitor the temperature with the extra channels of the VM167  and make a warning light on one of the outputs or a warning message in the software (new plugin😛) that the brake is getting hot. But does someone know the best place to put a temperature sensor on the Telma brake for a good measuring? 

Picture of my system at the moment with a Audi TT on it. 

That's a nice photo, man! 

I installed the sportdevices powersupply today and i wanted to make a test and i get a error message.  maybe i changed some setting that i didn't noticed.

I attached a printscreen of te pop up it only happens when you want to make a new run. I can adjust the brake by hand and it sees the correction sensor and give me the data tranfer number. 

printscreen of the firmware and data connection check

Inside the cabinet with the PC, YourDyno and Sportdevices power supply