Q&A Forum
Honda insight's can be fast. Too fast.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McJJeukIWSA
Yes, he was going very fast. I run a full-length undertray on the Insight that develops measurable downforce, even at 100 km/h. However, that's a topic for another place.
OOPS OH YEAH! I sand corrected FWDHp ( FrontWheelDriveHp) ……… you guys with front wheel drive cars look funny at the drag strip with big slicks on the front and skin tyres on the rear! LOL. oops shouldn't be laughing some quick FWD cars.
I dont think yourdyno should be controlling the cooling fan of the retarder , should just rig something up that switches on automatically at a pre_set temperature and it does it job.
Have a look at some of the eight (8) K-Type Thermocouples shields available for Raspberry Pi, Arduino and other stand alone USB controllers.
What year Honda insight is that on the dyno you're working on and what exactly is the negine inside of it ?? Fit another fuel tank somewhere and Switch to E85 and hookup a Flex Fuel Sensor more boost it will make more power.
OOPS OH YEAH! I sand corrected FWDHp ( FrontWheelDriveHp) ……… you guys with front wheel drive cars look funny at the drag strip with big slicks on the front and skin tyres on the rear! LOL. oops shouldn't be laughing some quick FWD cars.
What year Honda insight is that on the dyno you're working on and what exactly is the negine inside of it ?? Fit another fuel tank somewhere and Switch to E85 and hookup a Flex Fuel Sensor more boost it will make more power.
Hey now, I run normal tyres on mine.
235/40/17 on front and rear. But then I do only run 11.2 @ 149mph with 465hp down the 1/4 mile lol. Every RWD car beats me to 1/2 track. Then I go flying past them some where around 3/4 track like they are standing still. Since I have to drive it home which is 4 hours away from the drag strip Im to chicken to put slicks on it since id break a axel or gearbox pritty quickly.
I dont think there would be much left in the insight engine since it was made to work with electric engines as well.
Its only 3 cylinder 1L thats factory 60hp.
Would be better off to drop in a D series then build that for turbo.
Mine cost me $70 for a d15b vtec then $1200 to build and should hold 500HP.
OOPS OH YEAH! I sand corrected FWDHp ( FrontWheelDriveHp) ……… you guys with front wheel drive cars look funny at the drag strip with big slicks on the front and skin tyres on the rear! LOL. oops shouldn't be laughing some quick FWD cars.
I dont think yourdyno should be controlling the cooling fan of the retarder , should just rig something up that switches on automatically at a pre_set temperature and it does it job.
Have a look at some of the eight (8) K-Type Thermocouples shields available for Raspberry Pi, Arduino and other stand alone USB controllers.
What year Honda insight is that on the dyno you're working on and what exactly is the negine inside of it ?? Fit another fuel tank somewhere and Switch to E85 and hookup a Flex Fuel Sensor more boost it will make more power.
I have a few little adjustable temperature controllers that would be suitable. Trouble is, the previous owner extended the torque arm through the space where the fan is supposed to go. I may well move the load cell back to its proper position - I won't need to handle really high torque loads.
All Australian-delivered Insights are 2000 models - about 50 were sold here. All-aluminum body, drag coefficient of 0.25, 1-litre 67hp 3 cylinder plus 10kW electric motor (ie hybrid). 850kg. I run mine as a non-hybrid with MoteC M400, turbo, water/air intercooler. On a Dyno Dynamics they make about 55hp (with electric assist working), so 114hp without assist is doing ok.
I dont think there would be much left in the insight engine since it was made to work with electric engines as well.
Its only 3 cylinder 1L thats factory 60hp.
Would be better off to drop in a D series then build that for turbo.
Mine cost me $70 for a d15b vtec then $1200 to build and should hold 500HP.
Yeah but I still want 2.8 litres/100km (when I try). I am after the best fuel economy / performance compromise I can get. Just a personal challenge.
I spent two hours on the dyno this afternoon tuning lean cruise timing (lean cruise = 24:1 AFR) and EGR to get best volumetric efficiency. So much harder than getting another 20hp at the top end as I did this morning.
I dont think there would be much left in the insight engine since it was made to work with electric engines as well.
Its only 3 cylinder 1L thats factory 60hp.
Would be better off to drop in a D series then build that for turbo.
Mine cost me $70 for a d15b vtec then $1200 to build and should hold 500HP.Yeah but I still want 2.8 litres/100km (when I try). I am after the best fuel economy / performance compromise I can get. Just a personal challenge.
I spent two hours on the dyno this afternoon tuning lean cruise timing (lean cruise = 24:1 AFR) and EGR to get best volumetric efficiency. So much harder than getting another 20hp at the top end as I did this morning.
Mines not bad when you dont use the power.
Lean cruise 16.8:1 AFR (runs E10, When I had normal 98RON I was pushing that to 17.2:1)
Normal high way driving avg 6L / 100km, Can get that down to 5.6L / 100km on a night highway run with out using boost at all and no traffic hold ups but thats really boring.
5.2 liters per 100 kilometers is what the factory spec is ment to be for d15b vtec in my car. But dont know how they get that when factory tune has your cruising at 15.2:1
I've completed the retarder power supply (just had it mocked up on a breadboard before).
From top left then clockwise: VHF28 diode/SCR pack on heatsink, fan, filter, on/off switch, transformer (AFM11 needs 18V AC supply), AFM11 phase control trigger module, a very complex looking thing that is actually just the fan controller (rectifier, PWM controller giving 12V output, temperature display and switch, controller senses temp from top of heatsink).
I used lots of salvaged bits and pieces but basically it's about US$200 for the bits you need to buy new.
Very happy with YourDyno software and hardware. To be honest, the software is not the flashest around (but plug-ins may fix that) but it just... works.
I did about 20 power runs this morning tuning the top end, and the runs were repeatable and had excellent resolution.
I've never before driven a dyno, and a funny thing - my ankle is now sore from pushing down so hard on the accelerator pedal.... Beginners!
Just waiting now on two 3-bar MAP sensors to log boost and exhaust back-pressure, and I need to link (the existing) AFR meter to a dyno input.
I've completed the retarder power supply (just had it mocked up on a breadboard before).
From top left then clockwise: VHF28 diode/SCR pack on heatsink, fan, filter, on/off switch, transformer (AFM11 needs 18V AC supply), AFM11 phase control trigger module, a very complex looking thing that is actually just the fan controller (rectifier, PWM controller giving 12V output, temperature display and switch, controller senses temp from top of heatsink).
I used lots of salvaged bits and pieces but basically it's about US$200 for the bits you need to buy new.
Darren of D-Tec (a really nice guy) suggested I add some protection components to the SCR module, which I am doing. About US$3 for parts to do so.
Id recommend getting a seperate wideband for the Dyno.
Doesnt need to be an expensive one. Im using a 14point7 SLC free 2. Cost something like $20 for the controller bits and you solder it together yourself.
(There support isnt the best tho, I got 3 kits from them. 2 work perfect but the 3rd one the internal memory chip gets hot and it gets stuck in reboot loop.)
(Never heard anything back from there forum or email support, But still for the price its good.)
Then Im pulling LSU 4.9 sensors from the wreackers out of Holden/GMs. Get them for $5 so when you kill it its no biggy since on the dyno its easiest to just clamp the rear of the exhaust. But then you get all the stuff from the exhaust blowing out onto it.
I tried some ali-express O2 sensors but they were just junk. $20 ones gave fake reading (14.7-15.2 cycle no matter the condition), $40 ones had fake heaters inside of them (So only worked accurately if you got it hot by installing close to manifold), $50 ones looked to just be 2nd hand and cleaned.
Tuning wise tho I use a new genuine sensor for each car with its output going into the cars ECU, Costs $90 but thats covered by there dyno bill.
YourDyno is still really new and theres a lot to be done. Function over form at the moment.
Whats some UI improvments your thinking of. Iv already suggested a simple quick start button that takes you though a setup wizard.
My MoTeC dash has wide-band input that I use with the car's wide-band sensor, and I also have a MoTeC PLM that I thought I'd rig up for dyno use. (I basically test only the one car on my dyno!)
Re software, I am not sure, but this gives a guide to some that's out there.
Please note: I am not complaining about the hardware/software, and this is the best forum I've ever been on - really helpful people.
Which cars have LSU 4.9 sensors from the wreckers? Useful info to know!
Dont worry I didnt take it as a complaint lol. And even if it was, complaints are a good thing since you know where you can improve something.
I actually had the chance to work with mainline in testing there pro series back in 2014 but decided to keep the same system I had (Atec) and rewrite it myself. (Now look where they are.) Im not making that mistake again.
Another intresting bit of info is that mainline software is written on VB6 which IMO has that ugly early 2000s look, Especially when they forget to change the default forms icon. But it is user friendly and has some good feature which I plan to recreate with plugins if its a feature that ill use and not already on Josteins list.
Just thinking about it Im excited to think where YourDyno will be in 5 years, Especially with how community driven it is.
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Im not sure which models the O2 comes out of. The wreacking yard pulls them all out then I check the part numbers on them with my cell phone.
Dont worry I didnt take it as a complaint lol. And even if it was, complaints are a good thing since you know where you can improve something.
I actually had the chance to work with mainline in testing there pro series back in 2014 but decided to keep the same system I had (Atec) and rewrite it myself. (Now look where they are.) Im not making that mistake again.
Another intresting bit of info is that mainline software is written on VB6 which IMO has that ugly early 2000s look, Especially when they forget to change the default forms icon. But it is user friendly and has some good feature which I plan to recreate with plugins if its a feature that ill use and not already on Josteins list.
Just thinking about it Im excited to think where YourDyno will be in 5 years, Especially with how community driven it is.---
Im not sure which models the O2 comes out of. The wreacking yard pulls them all out then I check the part numbers on them with my cell phone.
As far as i know Bosch LSU-4.2 wideband O2 sensor is in the VX , VY & VZ commodores , genuine part number 0 258 007 200 .
Not sure about the LSU-4.9 ?
Yes mainline has come a long way and its all to do with Andrew Elder's hardware and software the best control system in the world IMO.
Can we please have a mode that varies brake load with roller (or road) speed? With the load configurable with a graph like the rpm sweep graph? (Percent brake load on vertical axis, and roller speed on horizontal axis.) Then we can simulate on-road drag (rolling and aerodynamic) and inertial effects.
I am finding that my dyno tune is too hard-edged for the road, because on the dyno I do only one rpm sweep, but on the road I do three successive rpm sweeps - 1st gear, 2nd gear and 3rd gear - and so I get different intake air temps as the car is under boost for much longer. Also I find the rate of change of rpm on the road has some implications for timing and boost control eg will be different in 1st gear versus 4th gear.
Such a YourDyno mode would also allow really good tuning of acceleration enrichment in different gears.
you can try manual mode and tune by Rpms..