Hi,

Yes, it's good to play around with the software. For your questions: 

You can print one page with all graphs or select only some of them. The print function will print the graphs you have currently selected to be visible, and with the scaling you have currently. You can zoom in or out and print again. 

You can adjust your paper size under Print page setup, then go to Page setup. You may need to adjust the margins to fit your printer.

All the aux channels can be programmed to be whatever you want. They will show as what you have programmed them to be in the print, for example boost, lambda, MAP, etc. 

Cheers,
Jostein

Sorry to be a pain , do you have a manual on the software on line, It might help stop me asking so many questions ?

I can't find where you modify the graph screen to change the torque, hp or rpm . I'm sure It's simple . As i said before , I'm not great with computers . I will try to get someone more savy than me to help.

Thanks

"V" Key will keep you to select different Aux channels, WHP power/torque or HP torque,etc.

Here a screenshoot of mine. can be adjust as you want. Hope that Help.

Thanks I'll give it a try

V just lets me delete a gauge ,I was trying to change the numbers at side , rpm is 12 say i want it 8 like on your chart?

I know for the other gauges you right click to change color etc and other  changes are in options .

But i can't find the adjustments for the graphs.

Is there an information page on using the software , it may save many questions as i'm no computer expert, like really not

To power my servo from an external source ?

From google search , I leave control wire as std , splice the sarth with the new power source , and cut power from youryno and run that wire to positive on external power source , and that source can be a different voltage to the 5v from yourdyno .

Can anyone please say this is correct or not ? thanks

On the valve I decided to use a ball valve and modify the port. I already tried on a small valve to see how hard it would be and it's easy. 

I made a copper piece domed as the ball and silversoldered it in so i could reshape the hole to a vee , no problem . For my final version i intend to use a bigger valve , say 2" for 1" hole and that will give me a longer vee.

For the final version i intend to drill the ball and stake it twice with brass rod then fill it with resin so it's solid . Then i can drill my hole on a diagonal , to left of inlet and right of outlet. Then when full open it's straight through.

Then put it together, twist it to just closed , mark that spot , take it out , draw the vee and die grind the slot out to fit the vee.

I'll loosen the sealing nylon sealing washers so it turns easy too , as i've been told small leakage is ok .

What you guys think , ?

 Actually i figured to drill straight through on left side allows for more degrees of rotation and a longer vee groove

Posted by: pumpngo

 Actually i figured to drill straight through on left side allows for more degrees of rotation and a longer vee groove

What dyno are you converting ?

Most ball valves are from closed position to fully open position is a 90 degree rotation , you will be micro stepping the motor ? or gearing it ?

I just made a spherical ball turning apparatus for one of my lathes need some ball turning a while back and now it has come in handy and slot shape  according.

On my heenen and froude GB4 has a good working V slot valve cylindrical one but i don't want to modify it, I  will be making one to suit the dyno.

basically going to try and copy this stepper setup.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mG2Q48l2V7A

Does the software have to be plugged into the yourdyno hardware to use all options ? I just tried the V , the dialogue box comes up but it actually does nothing ticked or unticked the screen stays the same and all the stuff on the bottom of the page doesn't work either ?

Yes a standard ball valve only turns 90 deg open to closed. But it can be modified if your happy only sealing on one side of the ball,. Plus if you use a 2" ball to drill a 1" hole to the left of the opening you get even more degrees of rotation to put the vee slot in. Probably about 160-180 degrees. Long enough to get a good taper on the vee slot.

What speed is necessary for good dyno control ? The servo's I'm looking at can vary from .1 sec per 60 degrees rotation to .5 sec or longer for the bigger kg rating slower the valve.

I can get a good strong robotics  servo but it's .5 sec per 60 degrees Is that fast enough ? The smaller non industrial ones are faster say around the ,2 sec per 60 degrees or at a cost possibly .1

do you think .5sec per 60 degrees is fast enough ?

I watched the servo being tested on youtube and it did about 1 rev per second so thats only .2 sec odd per 60 degrees

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC12-24V-110KG-CM-ASMC-04A-High-Torque-Servo-for-Large-Robot-mechanical-Arm/122591233274?hash=item1c8b01c4fa:g:lPoAAOSwM5RZksiR

You can download a dyno file here:  http://yourdyno.com/DemoRun2.csv

You should aim for <0.5sec for full brake to no brake. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umAsm3MmjIk

8 turns in less than 8 sec here . So these might be good and with the power they have i could do twice length on servo arm to valve arm to double speed if necessary. You can select slow or fast and adjust number of rotations. I only need half a rotation. I figure at 2-1 ratio I'll be .2  to . 25 full open to full closed.The valve I'm making should be only 115-130 degrees So maybe even faster.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYQfbKOxfQs

More demo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3d0pbFhNTM

 another demo better illustrating our purpose