Q&A Forum
Not yet properly corrected for roller inertia.
- Nice going Julian it's ALIVE!
- How are you going to correct the rotating asseblies moment of interia?
Jostein has a good video on how to do that. Basically, program a symmetrical ramp up and then ramp down, and the two power curves should be on top of each other. If they're not, adjust the inertia number. It only took me three runs to get a good match.
Only made 1hp difference - peak is now 93. (That was initially using the default inertia value.)
You should celebrating today Australia Day
Work it Australia day was on the 26th January and we get a holiday on Monday 28th January... nice day down at the beach relaxing for me!
What happens when you run a different vehicle with larger drivetrain with bigger and heavier wheels on the rollers ?
What happens when you run a different vehicle with larger drivetrain with bigger and heavier wheels on the rollers ?
Yes, something different I'd imagine. For me, it doesn't matter - the dyno will so rarely see a different car that I could set the inertia value up for each of them individually.
If you have raw logging enabled you only have to do 1 run to work out the MOI.
Then you just keep loading the raw file when you make a change to MOI setting instead of doing another run.
I think there is a youtube video on it in your YourDyno channel.
If you have raw logging enabled you only have to do 1 run to work out the MOI.
Then you just keep loading the raw file when you make a change to MOI setting instead of doing another run.
I think there is a youtube video on it in your YourDyno channel.
Ah yes, that's right. Anyway, it was quick and easy.
Well, I didn't expect to achieve that! 98RON pump fuel (previously tuned on 95) , more timing in top-end and from 2-4000 rpm. You can see that I lost some power in the 3-4000 rpm area - I need to revisit this - but good gains elsewhere. Top-end drop is because boost is falling away, and I also had a 'safety' timing retard for over-boost - I've now increased timing and boost here, but haven't yet dyno tested that changed config.
It's certainly much easier engine management mapping on a dyno than on the road. I'll do a week of on-road testing to ensure that things are fine under real road conditions, then maybe look at increasing the redline if I can get the power to stay on.
RE dyno set-up:
- US$200 dyno power supply seems to work fine.
- I do have the brake supply drop-out that someone else mentioned - need to unplug YourDyno before it works again. Doesn't happen during a run (thankfully).
- I urgently need to be logging boost - MAP sensors x 2 will be ordered today (manifold pressure and exhaust pressure)
Finished with top end. Now need to spend a lot of time from 4000 rpm downwards.
Re dyno: will now build power supply into a proper box. Have bought the cheap USB relay board for which the plugin is available. Two MAP sensors on their way, and I'll buy a thermocouple converter board for EGT.
What are you wanting to use as conditions to switch the relays on. I'll put some more time into that plug-in this weekend to release version 1.1
What are you wanting to use as conditions to switch the relays on. I'll put some more time into that plug-in this weekend to release version 1.1
Now you've caught me. I was just thinking big on-screen on/off buttons! But when I think about it, one output could trigger a dyno brake cooling fan - so maybe a brake temp input?
To be honest, I haven't really thought it through at this stage.
(PS Re your help earlier help in tie-ing down a FWD - one strap was touching a tyre this morning without my realising. Wore about half way through....)
Nice work Julian , Woooooooooooooo hooooooooooooooooooo 115RWHp@5500rpm now watch-out the big horsepower is coming on!
Yes a fan will be required on the retarder specially at long session steady state pulls at low rpm , I have had my chassis dyno retarder glowing a dull red.
Nice work Julian , Woooooooooooooo hooooooooooooooooooo 115RWHp@5500rpm now watch-out the big horsepower is coming on!
Yes a fan will be required on the retarder specially at long session steady state pulls at low rpm , I have had my chassis dyno retarder glowing a dull red.
Yeah lol iv been there as well back when the fan was manually controlled for the retarder.
Could smell something burning. Looking around the car couldnt see anything. Saw some dull red light down the vents to the retarder. Take the lid off it and was cooking the grease out of the supporting bearings.
What are you wanting to use as conditions to switch the relays on. I'll put some more time into that plug-in this weekend to release version 1.1
Now you've caught me. I was just thinking big on-screen on/off buttons! But when I think about it, one output could trigger a dyno brake cooling fan - so maybe a brake temp input?
To be honest, I haven't really thought it through at this stage.
(PS Re your help earlier help in tie-ing down a FWD - one strap was touching a tyre this morning without my realising. Wore about half way through....)
Guess ill just stick to my orignal plan for V1.1 and have selectable input and < or > X value to turn that relay on. Only probably is only the bluebox inputs work as conditions so far. So youd have to use THC,AUX1, 2 or 3.
What boost are you running so far?
I made 200HP on a 1.1L Honda city turbo with 21psi lol.
Nice work Julian , Woooooooooooooo hooooooooooooooooooo 115RWHp@5500rpm now watch-out the big horsepower is coming on!
Yes a fan will be required on the retarder specially at long session steady state pulls at low rpm , I have had my chassis dyno retarder glowing a dull red.
🙂 It's FWHP - and the car also has a rather good trick in its book... it can get 2.9 litres/100km.
The retarder fan has been removed from my dyno. I'll have to look at what I can reinstall.
Nice work Julian , Woooooooooooooo hooooooooooooooooooo 115RWHp@5500rpm now watch-out the big horsepower is coming on!
Yes a fan will be required on the retarder specially at long session steady state pulls at low rpm , I have had my chassis dyno retarder glowing a dull red.
Yeah lol iv been there as well back when the fan was manually controlled for the retarder.
Could smell something burning. Looking around the car couldnt see anything. Saw some dull red light down the vents to the retarder. Take the lid off it and was cooking the grease out of the supporting bearings.What are you wanting to use as conditions to switch the relays on. I'll put some more time into that plug-in this weekend to release version 1.1
Now you've caught me. I was just thinking big on-screen on/off buttons! But when I think about it, one output could trigger a dyno brake cooling fan - so maybe a brake temp input?
To be honest, I haven't really thought it through at this stage.
(PS Re your help earlier help in tie-ing down a FWD - one strap was touching a tyre this morning without my realising. Wore about half way through....)
Guess ill just stick to my orignal plan for V1.1 and have selectable input and < or > X value to turn that relay on. Only probably is only the bluebox inputs work as conditions so far. So youd have to use THC,AUX1, 2 or 3.
What boost are you running so far?
I made 200HP on a 1.1L Honda city turbo with 21psi lol.
I am running 11-12 psi. CR is 10.8:1.
But if I wanted to go fast, I'd not be tuning a Honda Insight. For me, it's just fun.
Honda insight's can be fast. Too fast.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McJJeukIWSA