Eddy current brake control

YourDyno can perform Eddy current brake control. The dyno below is a YourDyno controlled eddy brake dyno from JDM Dyno Systems.


Below is a more home made setup, also running YourDyno. 

If you have an old eddy current dyno, in many cases you can use your existing power supply. They are controlled using some analog signal or PWM signal. You may connect the power supply’s control signal directly to YourDyno, or at most need to make a small interface to YourDyno. For example, old Bosch eddy current dynos use a 0-10V analog signal. To control those, you just need a simple circuit that converts between a 0-5V signal to a 0-10V signal.

The Eddy current power supply

CAUTION! When working with Eddy current brake control, be aware that high voltages are generated. Take necessary precautions. 

In case you do not have a power supply, here are some options.

First make sure you know the power requirements for your brake. Dyno brakes are already wired with all coils in series, so you can see directly the voltage and current requirements from the spec. Brakes from trucks and buses are wired for either 12V or 24V and will need to be rewired so all coils shall be in series. This will equate to either 96V or 192V for most brakes (each coil is 12V normally). Check the spec to also find the current rating. 

By far the easiest and most straight forward is to use the YourDyno power supply. It is made specifically for YourDyno, has electrical noise filters and is rated for 30 Amps. It includes a Bluetooth module with support for status.

Connecting the power supply to YourDyno

Here is how to connect YourDyno instrument box to the YourDyno power supply. Similar connections apply for other brake supplies. The jumper inside the YourDyno box should be in the default position which is PWM. See this link if you are unsure if you have moved the jumper. 

The power supply is made to run from 220-240VAC and will deliver 0-192V DC. 

See also https://yourdyno.com/yourdyno-eddy-brake-power-supply/

 

Other Power supply options for the adventurous

You can also build your own power supply using available components. If  you go this route, make sure you know what you are doing. All info is provided with no guarantees what so ever.

First example is using Semikron:

Two modules are necessary, an SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier) phase angle control module (for example Semikron SKPC 200) and the controlled rectifier bridge itself, for example the Semikron SKCH 28 series. The SKPC 200 controls the “firing” of the diodes in the bridge, effectively controlling the rectified voltage (DC) that is applied to the Eddy current brake. The input to the SKPC 200 is an analog signal 0-5V, that is why a filter is necessary on the PWM signal in case of YourDyno v3. YourDyno v4 can control the Semikron directly.

Make sure to select an SKCH that can take your max current and voltage. Also make sure that the bridge has a reverse diode. When the controller turns off power to the brake quickly, the current in the brake continues to flow for some time due to the stored magnetic energy. If there is no diode, the voltage increases until something breaks. The reverse diode solves the problem (make sure it can take the current too). There is also some filtering on the main supply.

Option 2

A second option is using a passive rectifier bridge and an IGBT transistor that is turned on and off quickly using PWM. Here is a schematic, courtesy of a fellow YourDyno user.

Read the notes. This power supply is driven directly by YourDyno’s PWM output. 

Option 3

Another option is to use a module from NuWaveProducts.com. The circuit is different from the circuit using Semikron modules; instead of using a controlled rectifier bridge, it chops up the AC signal, thereby reducing its energy, and this signal is then rectified using a standard fixed rectifier bridge.

Practical module from NuWaveProducts that includes cooling and protection

The solution from NuWaveProducts can be controlled directly from YourDyno using a PWM signal. You need a couple of components in addition to the module; a 24V transformer, a current transformer (if you want current limit), plus of course the rectifier bridge itself.

Make sure to order the module with no “soft start”. Soft start is ok for powering heaters and the like, but an eddy current brake needs as low delay as possible for the PID algorithm to be stable. Also make sure to include the Snubber. A Snubber is a filter that protects the components from high voltages when the switches turn off.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last updated byadmin on September 17, 2020

3 Comments

  1. Mark Loupis
    October 28, 2019 @ 9:34 pm

    hi just need a bit of help i have a old Mustang emission dyno and the power supply works with a 0-5v signal and there are 3 wires going to the board I-Con , I-Sig & I-Pow how is this wred do i just need 2 wires or use all 3

    Reply

    • admin
      October 28, 2019 @ 9:54 pm

      Hi,
      I expect i-Con = 0V and I-Sig = signal and I-Pow should be unconnected. But can you post a picture? And better to start a topic in the forum, to see if different people can chip in.

      Reply

    • Michael
      November 28, 2019 @ 4:30 am

      I also have an older Mustang dyno with the same type of power supply. In talking with the Mustang techs, I was told the signal isn’t 5v analog. It is a special digital 5v communication signal. I confirmed this with my own testing. So I bought the PWS3.2 listed above. Works great! I am using the PWM signal.

      Reply

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *